Mountains don’t meet, but people do.

It’s awesome how people from different places can come together and bond. They say that mountains don’t meet, but in a way, people are like the peaks of a mountain range that connect through valleys and trails. They are sharing an adventure while having meaningful conversations, undoubtedly making them closer and more authentic because any conversation on the trail is pure, whether it’s with other hikers or with yourself. 

Smutwood Peak

The name Smuttwood comes as a result of the peak’s spectacularly scenic location between TWO much larger mountains: Mount Smuts and Mount Birdwood. Smutwood is not particularly popular and does not attract crowds. But it does attract bears, grizzly bears to be exact. Our last year’s attempt was cut short due to trail closure and Jill and I dreamt of those panoramic views since.

Researching this trail was somewhat confusing though. I read on several other blogs that this was an EASY objective. What? I did not find this trail easy so I’m a bit confused by the wide range of opinions on this. I don’t know if it was because my legs were sore from summiting the Tent Ridge the day before but there is no way this was easy! What? Nooo waaay!!!

Smutwood Peak At A Glance

Nonetheless, here’s how I feel about this trail. Smutwood Peak is a highly scenic hike that takes about 7 hours to complete and comes with gorgeous views of Mount Birdwood from the summit. For the most part, the trail is somewhat flat until the last few kilometers where you will notice a rapid increase in the elevation gain. It will get spicy, challenging, steep and technical and one section requires some hands-on scrambling.

  • Distance: 19km
  • Elevation Gain: 919m
  • Time: 7:18:37
  • Difficulty: Not easy! Nooo waaay!!!

Getting To The Smutwood Peak Trailhead

The trailhead is located at the first left after the bridge past Engadine Lodge in Kananaskis and begins at the south end of the parking lot. You can get there from Canmore on the Smith-Dorrien (Hwy 742) or via Highway 40.

Hiking Up The Smutwood Peak

After hiking along an old logging road for about 30 minutes or so, we arrived at a fork in the trail and followed the right-hand branch towards Commonwealth Creek. Once we approached the creek the road quickly shrunk and a narrow trail ascended through the forest. But nothing too crazy except for some muddy areas and lots of roots, which is typical terrain for that area. From there the valley opened up. The trail further continued along the open meadow and ascended the distant pass between Mounts Birdwood and Smuts. In a couple of spots, it got super windy. It also called for 10 cm of snow after 3 p.m.

When doing the final scramble, it’s important not to panic haha even though it’s only classified as a class 2. I made the mistake of going too far to the left and had to go back. To avoid this, I recommend sticking closer to the right side but be sure to avoid the edge. There are loose rocks in some areas, so you may need to use your hands to climb.

The route down will be much faster than the way up. The best part about hiking down the ridge from the summit was that we were able to spend the entire time staring at Mount Birdwood and the Birdwood Lakes below. The views were sublime. What? Nooo waaay!

Larch Madness

Larch trees are a beautiful example of nature’s wonders, with their needle-like leaves that transform into a bright yellow hue in the fall. The season is a bittersweet place of change that is not quite autumn yet but is more than just a chapter beyond summer. The golden needles of the larch trees create a stunning contrast against the evergreen forests and blue skies. And it makes for a striking scene on many mountain trails, albeit a brief one. This colourful transformation typically happens from about mid-September to early October, though everyone is saying heat-stressed larches are turning golden earlier than usual.

Larches come and go fast and nothing lasts forever. With such a short window to see this unusual sight, it’s no wonder it drives hikers crazy. So if you haven’t been, go now. Here are some tips for getting your larch fix without going any crazier than you need to:

  • Researching beforehand can help you plan your route accordingly. If you hiked during the summer and didn’t come across any larches, chances are they won’t be present in the fall either.
  • Go when no one else is going, trails are highway traffic and the parking lots are full. Weekdays are usually less busy than weekends, so you may be able to enjoy your hike in more peace and quiet. It’s also a good idea to arrive early in the morning or later in the afternoon when fewer people are likely to be on the trails.
  • Keep an eye on the trip reports to get a better idea of when it’s best to go on your hike. The season is short, so it’s important to plan accordingly. Take note of what other hikers are saying and use that information to your advantage.
  • Watch the weather. Ideally, you’ll want to go when the temperatures are low and the skies are blue.
  • The harder the hike the fewer people you’ll see. What? Nooo waaay!!!

LNT

Leave no Trace (LNT) are set of principles for people to follow while adventuring in the wilderness. The goal is to create as little impact as possible in the area you’re travelling in, keep the backcountry clean, and minimize the likelihood of wildlife encounters.

Related

For more K-country trails, read here and here.

Happy Trails!