The best path I have ever been on in my life is the one that led me straight to the mountains.

three-peat!

By May 2020, I was tired of stay-at-home orders, tired of social distancing, tired of being careful and tired of being scared. Those first couple of months of lockdown were freaking hell for me. I still twitch at the sound of homeschool, and let’s flatten the curve. It took weeks to move through grieving the life I thought I enjoyed. I ached for some human connection other than my then 6-year-old roommate. I was sick of Zoom calls, Skype and Teams meetings. Instead, I wanted tequila shots on the beach and martinis at Sabor (we did have 14 when they finally reopened). My freedom was becoming even more limited. It seemed as though life was getting cancelled. It sucked. But then something beautiful happened. I went to the MOUNTAINS.

I cannot precisely explain the connection I have with the mountains. These majestic creations of nature seem to possess the ability to provide a sense of grounding nothing else can compare with. They symbolize strength for me. In many cultures, mountains are associated with the divine. Did you know that Mount Everest in Nepal, for example, is referred to as “Mother Goddess Of The World”? Neither did I! Being on top of the mountain makes me feel humble and inspired. I feel HOME.

Absolute Best Hike in Canmore?

So, where was I? Hiking Ha Ling. Some say it’s the absolute best hike in Canmore. Sure, if you like highway traffic. It is super busy. I think popular would be a better choice to describe it. So if it’s solitude you are after, then this trail is not for you. The mountain offers great views, though, and it is easily accessible from the town of Canmore. I first hiked Ha Ling in August of 2020 with my trail buddy Mark. Then again, solo in March 2021 and again in September with Colleen and Cynthia for sunrise. I will never get tired of the view on this peak.

History

Ha Ling Peak was previously named Chinaman’s Peak, but the name was changed to be less offensive in 1997. The folk story has it that, in 1896, a Canadian Pacific Railway cook by the name, you guessed it, Ha Ling, was bet money that he couldn’t summit the peak in under 10 hours. But he did. I did. Three times to be sure. Ha Ling reopened in May 2020 after an almost 1 million dollar makeover from Parks Canada. The trail is now longer, wider, and switchbacks are gentler. The slope has added steps and railings in some parts.

Hiking Ha Ling in the Summer

The first time I summited Ha Ling, it didn’t feel easy. My body hurt for days after this hike. Having said that, there are no technical issues that would require superpowers. The scree section past the stairs is challenging but not deadly. It is loose. Once you reach the saddle and peek over the edge, you will immediately forget all the heavy breathing because the views are stunning. From the saddle, we ridge walked to Miner’s Peak, which felt more nauseous than I expected. Summer on Ha Ling is highway traffic. You stop letting people pass and are getting tripped over by herds of tourists in flip flops. I would suggest starting early and going midweek.

Hiking Buddy – Mark

Mark and I have been working together for the province for over four years now. He is a retired member of the Canadian Army Forces who sleeps, eats and breaths all things army. He is thorough, practical and stubborn at times. OK, all the time. His analytical ability and leadership inspire me. We make a good team until he decides to take a 20-minute nap while hiking.

Hiking Ha Ling in the Winter

I decided that Ha Ling was a great place to change my focus in March 2021. It was really easy to complain about life and all the things that were outside of my control. But I forgot how cold it gets up there and how freaking windy. The snow was blowing sideways at the saddle, and visibility was shit. Most of the trail was packed snow though. The stairs were covered in ice, and I needed to hold on to the chains on the way up. I don’t know how people do it without proper footwear and microspikes. It was a quick hike, quicker than summertime, maybe because no one was there. If you decide to go in winter, be adequately equipped and do not get too close to the edge. There are several large cornices ready to dislodge at any time.

Hiking Buddy – Solo

I am hard to convince, and I wouldn’t say I like advice. I need privacy to replenish my energy. And I have a strong need for freedom, not sure if it is Covid related or divorce-related. I dream the impossible dream. I am quickly impressed, impatient and easily hurt. There, I said it.

Hiking Ha Ling at Sunrise

With 4:57 am start, it was pretty scary walking through the dark trail. Even more so on the ridge. It was the first time Cynthia and Colleen summited Ha Ling. We were secretly hoping for cloud inversion but we got a sleet storm in our faces instead. It was blowing wind so hard we could barely stand. Despite the unrelenting winds and rugged terrain, we pushed to the saddle. The scree was too challenging, so we didn’t even attempt the actual summit. You still have the same views of Canmore, Rundle, Spray Lake Valley and Miner’s Peak from the saddle. We jumped on our way down, looking forward to a dip in the hot tub and a glass of vino Tinto at 10 am. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Ha Ling you beautiful hike!

Hiking Buddies – Colleen and Cynthia

Cynthia is a millennial who thinks I am a millennial. She is very methodical, always looking for ways to improve herself. She has a list for everything and can expand in any direction. We used to work for the feds together, and now we work for the province. I guess we are lifers or public servants. Same same.

Colleen is cheerful and outgoing. She has wiped my tears plenty of times. Also, we have done a lot of stupid stuff together. Like that one time in Mexico when we rolled in pesos on the bed. Ah! Good times. I admire her strength and what she has accomplished. She gets along with everybody. She is always seeking new places, new faces, new experiences.

How To Find a Good Trail Buddy

It is crucial to find a buddy who matches your hiking abilities. It’s no fun having to slow your pace continuously or struggle to keep up. Having said that, it is equally important finding someone that gets it, gets you and creates memories one trail at a time. Once, I wanted to be challenged and joined the Wild Canadian Hikers group. The women were very seasoned, and I couldn’t keep up with their pace. I viewed this as a learning opportunity though I didn’t see it at that moment. Not many people know this, but I wouldn’t say I like leading on a trail. Navigations, safety issues, decisions, turnaround time are not for me. I am there for the experience, memories and celebratory shots. ALWAYS.

Hiking Ha Ling

The trail starts with a million and a half switchbacks through forested areas before breaking the tree line. After that, there are two sets of stairs to help you reach the saddle. The saddle to the summit is approximately 100 meters of elevation gain over less than 500 meters in the distance. You can ridge walk to Miner’s Peak. It’s a great alternative to the very popular Ha Ling summit.

Distance: 3.5 km to the saddle

Difficulty: Moderate

Elevation gain: 800 m

Time: 3-5 hours depending on the season

Where is Ha Ling

You can reach the trailhead by heading west on 742 out of Canmore. Continue up the mountain road and once you park on your right, cross the Smith Dorrien Road, walk over the concrete bridge and head up into the trees. VOILA!

Trail Wisdom

With how the last two years went, so many things getting cancelled, human interactions I needed so very much becoming even more limited, a few things remained available: nature and spontaneous adventures. It is amazing what the outdoors can do to one’s mental state. Go outside. TODAY.

LNT

Pack it in, pack it out. I will make a post about all the things I find on the trails, cigarettes butts included. RUDE! Who is still smoking in 2022?

AST 1

It wouldn’t hurt to learn some avalanche skills training and the principle of winter backcountry travel. I completed AST 1 with https://yamnuska.com/avalanche-courses/ast-1/ last year and discovered I am as good at digging as I am at giving CPR.

Related

If you like Canmore you can read about Mount Lady Macdonald here: https://sylviasomewhere.com/mt-lady-macdonald/

Happy Trails and Play Safe!