Siám’ Smánit – The Chief.

Shoulder seasons in AB are sensitive, ahem gross. It’s not quite summer, and it is not quite winter. Most of our April showers bring blizzards rather than May flowers. The wet and heavy snow makes trails sleek and icy in the mountains. Trails are permanent mud pits, and the avalanche danger increases with all that snow waiting to melt. Also bears! They are up, and they are hungry! Do you know what else is up? Ticks! No one likes ticks. NO ONE. So, what can you do instead? Go to BC!

There is no shortage of things you can do in beautiful BC. Honestly, there are so many activities and places to see that it can be hard to know where to start. But one of my favourite things about the Greater Vancouver Area, in particular, is that you can do a lot in just a weekend. It’s a short flight from YEG, and for $55 (on sale) one way, it is cheaper to go to Vancouver than drive to Canmore. So that is precisely what I did. It didn’t take much convincing for my hiking buddy, Agnieszka, to tag along.

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The Legend Of The Chief

The Chief Mountain is considered a place of spiritual significance. According to the indigenous people and their traditions, it is a longhouse transformed into stone by Xáays. The great cleft in the mountain’s cliff-face in Squamish legend is a mark of corrosion left by the skin of Sínulhka, a giant two-headed sea serpent. The Chief’s title in the Squamish language, Siám Smánit, refers to something that is deeply respected, such as a leader, a teacher or an elder.

Where Is The Chief

The Chief is located in Stawamus Chief Provincial Park. The trailhead begins near Squamish at a parking lot on Highway 99. Sḵwx̱wú7mesh is a small town with an authentic vibe, located only 64 km from Vancouver and is famous for its outdoors. There are only so many routes in Canada with as many breathtaking views as the iconic Sea-to-Sky Highway, also known as BC Highway 99. Ocean on one side, mountains on the other. It is legendary, and the drive has views for days at just about every turn.

You currently do not require a day-use pass at any BC Parks.

Hiking The Chief

The Chief is one of the BC coast’s classic hikes and challenging at the same time. It is a technical trail that goes straight up right off the start. The never-ending incline has been called nature’s stair master for a reason. The terrain starts on stairs but switches to dirt with many loose rocks and roots. There are sections with chains and ladders. Many people underestimate how difficult it is because it’s a short hike, but while it’s only over 8 km, it gains 600 m in elevation in the first 2 km. So, do the math. It is steep, and it is hard.

One of North America’s largest granite monoliths, which means a single massive rock or stone, is split into three unique summits. It stands 700 meters (2300 feet) above Squamish, BC. For comparison, El Capitan rises 910 meters (3000 feet) from Yosemite Valley and is a constant thought in my mind. But I digress.

Depending on which peak you are on, you will enjoy the views of the town, Howe Sound, Tantalus Range and Mount Garibaldi.

First Peak at 610 m (2,001 feet) 3 km

If you don’t think you can bag all three peaks in one day, skip the first one. Having done a little bit of research and from what I read, the views are way better from the second and third peaks. Most people will only hike to the first one, and it’s highway traffic, so we went straight for the second and third. Once you reach the lookout rock, the trail splits between the first peak to the left and the second peak to the right.

Second Peak at 655 m (2,149 feet) 3.4 km

Getting to the second peak was no cakewalk. Although the trail runs through a beautiful mossy forest, it involves more rock steps, chains on the steep rock face and ladders. It was quite narrow in spots and required some strategy. It’s technical. I looked at Agnieszka’s face, and I am glad there is no such thing as the word quit in her vocabulary. On a busy day, you have to take turns with people, which allows for some fun conversations. Further up, you will reach the open, rocky surface of the second peak with Howe Sound in the background and the very busy first peak right in front.

It was nice to enjoy the views without getting blown over, unlike in the Rockies. We continued along the ridge, following the yellow markers into the valley known as The Saddle.

Third Peak at 702 m (2,303 feet) 3.6 km

We headed down into the trees from the second Peak, which added an extra 1 km or so until we reached the third peak. It was easy to navigate, and I couldn’t wait to soak up more views of the Tantalus Range. It was a gloomy west coast day, though, so Mount Garibaldi was not visible in the distance between the gap in the rocks.

Going up to the third peak did not require the use of chains or ladders, though it is the highest of the three peaks. We rested up there, and with the help of celebratory shots, we debated the descent.

The Descent

To return to the parking lot, you have to reverse down the Third Peak and shortcut right down into the gully or go over the Second peak, which would involve the chains sections and the ladder. Either way, you will get back to the trailhead and the million and a half stairs. It was a knee burner, steep and very technical. We had to watch our footing and really pay attention to each step. It felt endless, and I stopped counting how many times I slipped on those boulders. Eventually, the trail crosses Oleson Creek and comes back onto the main trail. You will definitely want poles for this descent from hell, which I am now going to therapy for.

The Chief Hike Stats

Distance: 8.3 km from the parking lot

Difficulty: Very hard

Elevation: 714 m

Time: 4-5 hours

What To Pack For The Chief

• Daypack plus rain cover (I used Osprey Daylite, which is my go-to for less heavy loads)
• Water (2 L bladder)
• Snacks
• Layers/Rain/Wind Jacket
• Hiking Boots
• Socks (good wool socks make a difference)
• Trekking Poles NOT ski poles
• First Aid
• Gloves (for chains)
• Celebratory Shots

LNT

LNT is built on seven principles that promote and inspire responsible outdoor recreation through education, research and partnerships. The basic message is to pack it in, pack it out. The principles include:

• Plan Ahead and Prepare
• Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
• Dispose of Waste Properly
• Leave What You Find
• Minimize Campfire Impacts
• Respect Wildlife
• Be Considerate of Other Visitors

Okay, what is with some people? Garbage, wrappers, Tim’s? For real, though.

Happy Trails!