In the fields, she stopped and took a deep breath of the flower-scented air. It was clearer to her than her kin, better than a lover, wiser than a book. And for a moment, she rediscovered the purpose of her life. She was here on earth to absorb its wild enchantments.

B. Pasternak

The Enchantments

Near Leavenworth, WA, is one of the most magical places you will ever hike – The Enchantments. High alpine lakes are scattered through the jagged, snow-covered mountain peaks. They range in colours from emerald to turquoise to different hues of blues when thawed. Wildflowers bloom along the trails and make this strenuous hike so so pretty. You will feel overwhelmed by all the beauty coming at you at once as you wander through this magical landscape. But unless you successfully get an overnight permit, you will have to do a thru-hike in one day, ONE MASSIVE DAY.

My friend Gina and I drove down the night before and camped at the Eighmile Campground. If you don’t get a spot, there is also an unofficial climber’s camp just before the Eightmile Campground. In the morning, I woke up stiff and immediately choked up. There aren’t many places that can bring me to tears, but this place felt very overwhelming. Breathing the crisp 6 am air felt so different. Purposeful. Inspiring. And as I watched the sky change colours, I knew it was exactly where I needed to be. I also forgot my poles in the car and panicked.

How To Thru-Hike The Enchantments

There are a few options for day hiking in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and only two main trails to access the Enchantments: Stuart Lake Trail Head and Snow Lakes Trail Head. You can thru-hike in either direction, but typically it is done from the Stuart Lake Trail Head.

Hiking through the Enchantments is very strenuous. The terrain is steep and rocky in sections, and some scrambling over loose rocks is involved, but it’s not very exposed. The lower trails are forested, and the upper trails are within an alpine environment.

Gina and I hiked from Colchuck/Stuart Lake TH, which sits 600 meters higher than the Snow Lakes TH. This allowed us to gain most of the elevation within the first 10 km when we were less tired, and our legs were doing what we actually wanted them to do. So pick your poison. You will get tired regardless. I was able to secure the Stuart Zone permit; not the ideal zone, but we spent the night there, and it was awesome. Hiking from Stuart Zone is like thru-hiking anyway because the two trails split, and it’s an additional 6.7 km between Stuart Lake and Colchuck Lake.

Overview of The Permit Zones

Stuart Lake TH to Lake Stuart

Stuart Lake takes you through lowland forests and beautiful meadows. The trail is well defined, and once you reach the actual lake, it is surrounded by a mountain range stretching to the sky. Mosquitoes were terrible, and we were eaten alive.

• Distance: 7 km
• Elevation: 558m
• Time: 3 hours

Stuart Lake to Colchuck Lake to the base of Aasgard Pass

Colchuck Lake is the easiest way to experience the glorious Enchantments. It follows a stream through a lush forest. The path is rocky, rooted with lots of steep inclines. The views of Dragon Tail peak and Colchuck Peak are just breathtaking. Worth. Every. Step.

• Distance: 6.7 km
• Elevation: 706 m
• Time: 4.5 hours

Aasgard Pass

You will hike counterclockwise around Colchuk Lake, which takes about an hour before starting the climb up Aasgard Pass. It is a gruelling 2.5 km steep climb through large boulders and some loose scree, but not much exposure. Follow the rock cairns and turn around often to see the beautiful Colchuk Lake and sun hitting the Dragontail Peak. Aasgard will test you but will give you one of the best views of the Enchantments.

Is it hard? Yes. Is it doable? Yes. Probably NOT the most challenging part of the whole hike. But heavy packs made it extra hard.

• Distance: 2.5 km
• Elevation: 609 m
• Time: 3 hours

The Core Enchantments

Typically you would be traversing over large slabs of granite, but instead, we traversed over still snow-covered Core, and it was easy to lose the trail. We spent hours there, maybe too long, but it was so beautiful, and we talked to people looking for Andy, who had left his sunglasses at Colchuk Lake and we were determined to find him. And we did! The sunglasses belonged to his father, whom I assume had passed, but the story was that he wore them while he summited Mt. Rainier, and they held a special memory for Andy. This really chatty four-year-old, Teddy, found them. He camped next to Andy in the Colchuk Zone, and it was clear they would be best buddies for life.

• Distance: 5 km
• Elevation loss: 305 m
• Time: 3 hours ??

The Core Enchantment to Snow Lakes

It was all downhill from there, literally. The descent wasn’t as steep as it would be from Aasgard; however, it was unpredictable, rocky, uneven and hard to follow. You will cross a small section of Via-Ferrata, snow paths with creeks rushing underneath, sometimes in ankle-deep water and often use your hands for balance. I suggest doing it before the sunset to avoid getting lost or injured.

• Distance: 2.4 km
• Elevation loss: 425 m
• Time: 2 hours

Snow Lakes to Nada Lake

Snow Lakes is quite a leisurely walk around the southern side of Snow Lakes. It is flat and easy, and mosquitoes will eat you and everyone around you. There is a dam to cross that is really the only challenge. The water was fast and ankle deep, but I believe it is not an issue later in the season.

• Distance: 3.2 km
• Elevation loss: 185 m
• Time: 1.5 hour

Nada Lake to the Snow Lakes TH

Everything was a blur from here on out. We ran into a 78-year-old man; I can’t remember his name, but he guided us through the creek, it was dark by then, and we were wearing our headlamps. He was heading in for ten days, alone. TEN!!! When we asked about the distance left, he just said about 5.5 miles, and I knew it was probably double that in km, and all I could think of at that moment was what in the actual fuck. And as soon as I felt that, this old gentleman, as if he could hear my thoughts, reminded me of how magical this place was, its journey, and how impactful it would be. I just had to remember to breathe.

This was by far the most challenging part for me mentally. My body ached; my feet did not want to walk another mile, but I really had to fight it internally. The terrain was so rocky, and there was no end in sight until the three climbers passed us and said to enjoy the last 10 minutes of our day. The ten minutes probably turned longer, but at that point, I held on to their lights in the distance until getting to the TH.

Then we cried. And I ate chocolate.

• Distance: 9.5 km
• Elevation loss: 1097 m
• Time: FOREVER

Permits/Transportation

Permits are only needed for the overnight stay in the Enchantments, not for day hiking. Only 2% of those that apply will be awarded the permit. You will still need a Day Use Permit that you can obtain at the trailhead. Additionally, National Forest Pass costs $5 and can be purchased at the trailhead. Remember, two cars, two permits.

Most people will leave one car at the Snow Lakes Trailhead and drive to the Colchuk/Stuart Lake Trailhead to start the hike. If that is not an option for you, you can either hitch a ride with fellow hikers (stranger danger) or use a professional shuttle company. There is Loop Connector or Leavenworth Shuttle & Taxi. Gina and I parked the car at the Snow Lakes Trail Head and used the shuttle to the Colchuk/Stuart Lake Trailhead. It is about 30 min drive between the two trailheads.

• Apply For Permits Here
• Additional Permit Info
• Permit Rules & Regulations

What To Pack For The Enchantments If Camping

• Tent
• Thermarest, Sleeping bag, Pillow
• Cooking system/fuel
• Daypack, I use Gregory Zulu
• Navigation (Garmin, AllTrails, Maps)
• First Aid Kit
• Pocket Knife
• Flashlight/Headlamp plus extra batteries
• Sun protection (Hat, Sunscreen, Sunglasses)
• Bug Spray
• Layers (Rain, Wind)
• Hiking boots, extra pair to change in the car, I use Scarpa boots
• Wool socks
• Poles
• Charged Phone (Extra Battery)
• Journal/Pen (For Real!!)
• Camera

What To Eat and How To Stay Hydrated

To minimize your weight, consider filtering water directly from the creeks along the trail. There is a wide variety of purification systems, so pick one that works for you. Here are a few options:

• Purification tablets
• SteriPEN Ultra
• Lifestraw personal water system
• Katadyn Befree Microfilter flask

Regarding nutrition, you will need to consume extra calories to replace electrolytes, preferably foods high in salt, like trail mix, beef jerky, protein bars, or pretzels, not burgers. This is to avoid hyponatremia.

When To Hike The Enchantments

May and June are considered early seasons, and just like in the Canadian Rockies, early spring means snow and unpredictable weather conditions may not allow road access. Travelling through snow is therefore highly likely. The Enchantments are usually snow-free in July and August, making this hike enjoyable, hot and busy. In September and October, the larches will turn. It’s a magical time to hike the Enchantments. I am assuming the larch madness is a thing in WA as well.

I was in WA in mid-July. The weather was perfect, plus 30, in fact. The Core Zone was still snow-covered, and some lakes were partially frozen. The mosquitoes in lower elevations were relentless.

Leave No Trace

LNT is built on seven principles that promote and inspire responsible outdoor recreation through education, research and partnerships. The basic message is to pack it in, pack it out. Yes, that includes your dirty diapers. The principles include:

• Plan Ahead and Prepare
• Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
• Dispose of Waste Properly
• Leave What You Find
• Minimize Campfire Impacts
• Respect Wildlife
• Be Considerate of Other Visitors

Mountain Goat Country

The goats are everywhere, and they will follow you closely. They are attracted to human salt in urine. If you want to know how to hike safely with goats, read Pro Tip from Washington Trail Association.

Trail Wisdom

From the minute I got into hiking to the minute I stepped on the trail, I struggled with the voice that would continuously tell me: “You’re not that good,” “You’re not that strong,” and “You’re not going to make it.” And at that point, the feeler in me would start to doubt everything. I often wondered what I was doing, why I was doing it, or what was to come. But I never questioned that it was exactly where I needed to be. 

At some point in life, we all will experience moments when we face difficult decisions. And that voice will try to tell you again: “You are not going to make it,” “You are not worthy.” So the most challenging thing you will ever have to do is tell that voice to fuck right off. Slowly, gradually, with forgiveness and patience.

All who hike the Enchantments in one day would probably agree that the pain, bruises, blisters and mosquito bites are a small price to pay for the overall experience. This was the most extreme hike I have ever done, but your mind will quickly forget the struggles and will forever be rewarded with memories of what can only be described as an alpine lake, DREAM.

Related

Are you ready to find your inner strength? Talk to my friend Gina. She is very down-to-earth and very well-grounded. Her practical approach to life makes her one of the most inspiring and transformative people I know. She has taught me so much, and I cannot wait for our next adventure together.

For more pictures from the Enchantments, see my gallery page.

Trail Distance/Time Discrepancy

It varies. There is a lot of discrepancy between what is reported and what it actually is once you complete the trail. I clocked 53 km and almost 26 hours on AllTrails over two days, going from Stuart TH to Stuart Lake, from Stuart Lake to Colchuck and back to Stuart Lake for the night, and again from Stuart Lake to Colchuck to Snow Lake TH. Regardless of where you start and stop to take pictures, eat lunch, etc., you need to be mentally prepared for at least 37 km/16-hour day.

We started at 7:30 am on day two and finished well after midnight. We probably spent an hour on Aasgard Pass drinking tequila and whatnot, but regardless it was a long day, and heavy packs made things very slow; also, the snow made it even slower. I think if you carry a day pack and thru-hiking the Enchantments in a day, it might take you 12 to 14 hours as per my research, but other than that, the reports on time and distance are just APPROXIMATE.

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You can do hard things! Happy Adventuring!