par.a.dise – a place of extreme beauty, delight or happiness

The uniqueness of Lake O’Hara goes beyond the spectacular vistas of alpine lakes, mountain peaks and its remote location. It is a rare experience of an incredible trail system whose access is strictly controlled by Parks Canada. The backcountry stretches in every direction with a network of connector trails and high alpine routes. Lake O’Hara is one wondrous landscape that really has it ALL. It will astound you. I have never seen anything quite like it. This pristine wilderness is located in Yoho, NP. The name Yoho is a Cree expression of awe and wonder and fits this landscape perfectly.

Yoho National Park

Yoho National Park, established in 1885 as Canada’s second protected area, sits on the western side of the Continental Divide and is next door to Banff National Park. It boasts stunning mountain scenery, vertical rock walls, glacier lakes, waterfalls, the second highest waterfall in Canada, Takakkaw Falls and a world-renowned fossil site, the Burgess Shale. If you haven’t been, go now.

Plan Your Trip To Lake O’Hara

There are four ways to visit Lake O’Hara:

1. Visit for the day

Advanced reservations are required through a random draw system, NO EXCEPTIONS. Applications were available between March 1, 2022, and March 30, 2022, and successful applicants were notified on April 1, 2022. I was NOT successful, so I walked the 11km (7 miles) access road to the trailhead. It is doable, but it is energy-sapping, so know your limits. It took me 2 hours. The outgoing bus requires no reservations, but it operates on a first-come, first-served basis, and Parks Canada is VERY strict on the rules. It is based on a quota on how many people are allowed into the area and not the number of seats on the bus. So it’s a RISK you have to take. 

2. Camp for up to three nights

Reservations are required and include the ability to reserve an inbound bus. The camping reservations were offered from February 3, 2022, and most likely were fully booked within a minute and a half, so your best bet is cancellations. 

3. Stay at the Elizabeth Parker Hut

This very competitive reservation will get you a seat on the bus and one of the 24 sleeping pads in the hut. It is located in a beautiful meadow less than 500 meters from Lake O’Hara.

4. Stay at Lake O’Hara Lodge

This most luxurious option offers rooms in the main lodge and lakeshore cabins. They also run their own fancy shuttle service.

Hiking Alpine Circuit

The Alpine Circuit offers one of the most expansive views in the park. The scenery is ever-changing and just stunning from every angle. You will pass small lakes, streams even a waterfall. It’s spectacular. So if you only have one day, I highly recommend Alpine Circuit.

Thanks to Lawrence Grassi, an Italian miner, and other trail builders, the hiking trails around Lake O’Hara are very well maintained and quite defined with signage, distance and directional arrows. Even the Alpine Lake Circuit had clear, blue trail markings on the rocks that were easy to follow.

Wiwaxy Gap Alpine Route

The trail begins at Lake O’Hara’s shores and follows the sign to head left and uphill toward the Wiwaxy Gap. It’s a steep climb via lots of tight switchbacks, and you will notice small painted markers along the trail on the rocky ledges to keep you on the trail. Gaps in the trees offer good views of Mount Schaffer, Mount Biddle and the Schaffer Ridge. On a blu bird day, the peaks are reflected in the turquoise waters of Lake O’Hara. Once you reach the Wiwaxy Gap, you will be rewarded with views in all directions and some wind gusts.

• Distance: 1.5 km
• Elevation: 500 m

Huber Ledges Alpine Route

I descended from Wiwaxy Gap towards Lake Oeasa and gave my lungs a breather though I can’t say the same about my knee caps. There was some exposure, but it wasn’t extreme. The trail narrows along the edges, so you must watch your footing. The trail crosses an avalanche chute and drops steeply down a series of ledges. This section of the trail travels under Mount Huber and may be intimidating if you fear heights.

Beautifully shimmering Lake Oesa was a perfect spot to lounge in the sun and take it all in. It sits at the base of Mt. Lefroy and Yukness Mountain. You can cut the Alpine Circuit short at this point by returning to the Lake O’Hara Day Use area via the Lake Oesa and Lake O’Hara Circuit Trails.

• Distance: 1.7 km
• Elevation loss: 250 m

Yukness Ledges and West Opabin Plateau

The trail starts on the opposite side of Lake Oesa, and the route ascends northeast across scree-covered slopes and then large rock slabs along the lower slopes of Yukness Mountain. You will be high above Lake O’Hara, and the views are jaw-dropping. I had to navigate through many boulders here and pay attention to the blue markers again, as they are the only way to keep on the trail.

• Distance: 2.2 km
• Elevation: 50 m, maybe?

This was definitely a highlight of the whole circuit. I loved glittering lakes set amid hanging valleys, soaring peaks and a bird’s eye view of the region. I mean, look at this place! You can’t take a bad photo here. The Opabin Prospect offers widespread alpine views, lush meadows, and gorgeous glacial lakes. It’s one of my favourite spots.

All Soul’s Prospect Alpine Route

All Soul’s Prospect continues from West Opabin trail. The route briefly levels out as it travels through an area of large rock slabs and small streams before resuming the steep ascent. The trail then continues under the shadow of Mount Schaffer. I had to cut it short to catch the outgoing bus or risk walking 11 km out on the access road. Two weeks later, however, I was able to snag a one-night camping reservation, so I will be posting an update on All Soul’s Prospect since the loop can be completed from either direction.

• Distance: 2 km
• Elevation: 245 m

How To Get To Lake O’Hara

Lake O’Hara is nestled in the Canadian Rockies of Yoho National Park and borders Banff National Park. The trailhead is only accessible via shuttle service through Parks Canada’s reservation system. Alternatively, you can hike an additional 11 km (one way) on the access road.

The parking lot is located just off Highway 1 and is approximately 10 min drive from Field BC or 15 min drive from Lake Louise. The closest airport is Calgary International YYC.

Bus Information

To get on the bus, you will need to enter a lottery. Once you arrive at the bus staging area or trailhead, a Parks Canada officer will check you in, and the bus driver will give you a token for the outbound bus. If you lose it, you will have to pay a fee of $9.75, and you may not be guaranteed a spot. So please don’t lose it! And don’t be late.

Day-use bus schedule (MST): 8:30; 10:30 (ingoing) and 9:30; 11:30; 14:30; 16:30; 18:30 (outgoing).

LNT

Lake O’Hara is a part of a very fragile ecosystem so consider reviewing LNT principles before visiting. LNT is built on seven principles that promote and inspire responsible outdoor recreation through education, research and partnerships. The principles include:

• Plan Ahead and Prepare
• Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
• Dispose of Waste Properly
• Leave What You Find
• Minimize Campfire Impacts
• Respect Wildlife
• Be Considerate of Other Visitors

What To Pack For Lake O’Hara

• Daypack
• Water (2 L bladder)
• Snacks
• Layers/Rain/Wind Jacket
• Hiking Boots
• Socks (good wool socks make a difference)
• Trekking Poles
• First Aid
• Hat
• Sunscreen, Bug Spray, Bear Spray
• CASH for Le Relais Day Shelter

For more detailed trail descriptions, you can visit the Parks Canada website.

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Stay Tuned and Happy Trails!

Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit – Update

Have you been yet? I somehow managed to snag a one-night camping reservation just two weeks after I first went. While Lake O’Hara was genuinely incredible the first time around, it was not enough. It honestly represents every level of beauty that the area has to offer. And it’s a realistic goal for getting a last-minute spot without winning a bus lottery. Getting on that magic bus and seeing those views again gave me a humbling reminder of my place in the world. I kid you not. You really have to go! 

Lake MacArthur

Assuming you snagged the last-minute camping spot at 4 am and started bright and early, make sure you head up to Lake MacArthur first. It’s a gem. Once you’re past the Le Relais Day Shelter, head into the forest past the ACC hut, located in the most beautiful meadow. It’s an easy gradual incline, and it feels like wandering through some beautiful adventure where the landscape changes drastically. It’s amazing what a little walk will do! The trail forks and veers off for Odaray Highline and uphill to Lake MacArthur pass. The trail via MacArthur Highline travels through boulders straight into an alpine meadow and continues down into the bluest lake you will ever see.
The view of the lake opens up in front of you, and on a sunny day, the colour of the water is so saturated it looks either filtered or as if it belongs in the tropics. So freaking BLUE!
You can head down to set up your tripod for pictures or have lunch and swim. I loved that the rock face continues right into the water, so in many places, you can walk in for a more gradual approach to swimming.

All Soul’s Prospect Alpine Route Updated

Since I had already done the Alpine Circuit, I was going to only do the All Soul’s Prospect and Opabin Plateau before coming out at the edge of Lake O’Hara and back to the Le Relais Day Shelter. This can be done from either direction. It was around 10 am when I started the grunt up the All Soul’s Prospect. It’s a reasonably steep boulder field with some minor exposure here and there but nothing too serious. It was getting warm, and the crisp air felt conspired with the warm sun. The views of Lakes Mary and O’Hara were sublime in every direction. It is really that pretty there. The trail then starts down the scree trail towards the Opabin Plateau below and goes over some snow. I’d say it is the most rugged part of Lake O’Hara.

Distance: 2 km
Elevation: 245 m

It was a peaceful, solo, overnight camping trip to Lake O’Hara in perfect weather conditions. The shift in scenery is dramatic and really unique in Yoho. You could live in AB your whole life and never see anything like it without heading into the mountains. While shades of blue dominate the Lakes in the summer, the larches’ needles will turn a bright, golden yellow by the end of September. Lake O’Hara should be taken both in the summer and fall. It’s really cool!

Lake O’Hara Campground and What To Pack When Camping

The campground at Lake O’Hara is pretty unique and offers 30 sites or tent pads. It is located about 500 meters from Le Relais Day Shelter, making it a great place to base yourself for day hikes. There are food lockers, storage, bathrooms and dishwashing sinks. Parks Canada officer will assign you a site when you check in on the bus. The maximum stay is three nights, and you are allowed one large bag per person. 

• Backpack
• Tent
• Sleeping Bag
• Sleeping Pad
• Jetboil
• Dehydrated meals/Snacks/Tea/Coffee
• Water (2 L bladder) I forgot my mouthpiece, so I carried a bottle. There is potable water available at the campground.
• Layers/Rain/Wind Jacket
• Hiking Boots/Sandals, for when not hiking
• Socks (good wool socks make a difference)
• Trekking Poles 
• First Aid
• Hat/Gloves
• Sunscreen, Bug Spray, Bear Spray
• CASH for Le Relais Day Shelter

Happy Trails!!