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It’s the battle of the Canadian Rockies, and while both places are beloved destinations, each offers something different.

Both are stunning parks. Banff has the better location in terms of access to the mountains, especially if you live in YYC. Jasper is less famous than Banff, but the town’s relaxed and unpretentious charm makes it more enticing than Banff. Jasper National Park is bigger than Banff National Park. Jasper stretches over 10,000 km of preserved land versus Banff at 6,641 km. Both offer spectacular landscapes, endless wilderness, emerald lakes (so many lakes), miles of trails, star gazing, atmosphere, adrenaline rush, good food, beer, goats and other critters! The coolest part is that the Icefields Parkway connects both parks. It stretches over 232 km, and it is one of the world’s most spectacular driving routes. It will have you gazing around at every turn. So, it’s a WIN-WIN!

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Jasper

Jasper is one of the Rockies’ best-kept secrets, mellow and relatively un-rushed. The town got its name from Jasper Haws, the original manager of the trading post. You will feel right at home because the locals are super friendly. Whether you are there for the summer or winter, these parts of the Rockies will consistently deliver some magical moments. There is plenty of beautiful trails, short, long, day hikes, and multi-day when it comes to hiking. I think the most challenging part is actually choosing which trail to take. Some of my favourites include:

Sulphur Skyline Trail in Jasper

Sulphur Skyline Trail is probably the best day hike in Jasper. It is well-trafficked and straightforward to follow. AllTrails rates it as doable, and I agree. Very doable. Please do it! It is all the way up and all the way down. The majority of the trail is in the trees but will gradually climb through many, many, so many switchbacks. It also connects to the Fiddle River Trail and Mystery Lake. Before breaking the treeline, you will notice a clearing with a bench or two. Lots of people stop here for lunch. Stunning views of the Fiddle Valley, Ashlar Ridge, and Utopia Mountain await.

The final portion of the ascent is steepish. Some of it is loose rock, but it is short, maybe 400 meters and not as difficult. No hands-on scramble is required. You just have to watch your footing. You can sit on the rocks and try not to get blown over while you do your celebratory shots. At the summit, it’s a scene of untouched beauty and wind.

Coming down is quick and easy. You can end the day with a dip in the Miette Hot Springs, but it was closed due to Covid last May. Instead, we were escorted to the parking lot by goats.

Where is Sulphur Skyline Trail

The Sulphur Skyline Trail is located in Jasper, AB, about a 4-hour drive west of Edmonton. If you are driving from Calgary, you are going through the most breathtaking views of Icefields Parkway, but I live in YEG, and the drive is flat and dull until past Hinton. The trail starts from the Miette Hot Springs parking lot. You will need the park pass to enter Jasper National Park.

Hiking the Sulphur Skyline Trail

Distance: around 9 km

Difficulty: moderate

Elevation: 700 m

Time: 3 hours

What to Pack for the Sulphur Skyline Trail

The trail started dry, but 3 km in the snow appeared. This was the end of May. We did not wear microspikes, but I wouldn’t recommend wearing a pair of white Nikes either. With Alberta weather being so unpredictable, there was still a lot of snow left on the trail. So it was a bit of a slog in some spots. The best practice is always to layer up and de-layer when necessary. And layer up again and then de-layer some more.

  • Bearspray (because bears)
  • Base layer, Mid Layer, Shell or Waterproof/Windproof Jacket
  • Hiking Boots
  • Wool Socks
  • Hat/Gloves
  • Hiking Poles
  • Daypack
  • Snacks
  • Hydration
  • First Aid
  • Navigation (there is aboslutely zero conenction on Miette Road)
  • Celebratory shots

Banff

Banff is well-loved and doesn’t need any introduction. It is busy and convenient and was initially called Banffshire after a Scottish district, who knew? There is so much to do here, like a LOT. Hiking opportunities are world-class, though I haven’t really hiked around the world. A few of my favourites include:

Sulphur Mountain Banff

History

Sulphur Mountain is a mountain overlooking the town of Banff. The mountain was named in 1916 for the hot springs on its lower slopes. In 1903, a meteorological observatory building was constructed atop Sanson Peak, the northern end of the Sulphur Mountain, which still exists. You can peek through the window to see its rustic interior. In the mid-1950s, the National Research Council built a Cosmic Ray Station to study cosmic rays as part of the “International Geophysical Year.” A plaque now marks its location, and the spot is a National Historic Site of Canada.

Norman Bethune Sanson was the first to summit the Sulphur Mountain in 1896 to record weather observations from an elevated position. Over the next thirty years, he made more than 1000 trips to the peak as a park meteorologist until 1945. I made it to the top twice! Once by gondola (with my daughter) and the second time with Agnieszka (my forever hiking buddy) from Banff Upper Hot Springs parking lot. But there is a third way to summit the mountain, from South East Ridge Trail.

Sulphur Mountain Trail from Banff Upper Hot Springs

Agnieszka and I had initially planned for Mountain Burke in Kananaskis. Still, due to the avalanche forecast calling for wet loose likely and wind slabs possible, we decided to leave it for another day. So in Mr. Sanson’s footsteps, we followed the trail 6 kilometres up and 750 meters in elevation gain through a lot of switchbacks, 27 to be exact. The hike is mainly in the trees, and the terrain was snowy but not muddy when we went, which was mid-May. It gained elevation quickly, and the views were minimal until the summit. It was still cool to see avalanche debris along the trail. Halfway up, you will see a gondola above you. 360-degree views of six mountain ranges, the Bow Valley, and the town of Banff will amaze you when you reach the summit.

From the summit, you can explore a couple of trails. The most popular is Mountaintop Boardwalk, which leads to the Weather Observatory. And then there is the South East Ridge Trail over some technical terrain that leads to Sulphur Mountain’s true summit. We took an hour for lunch and gazed down in amazement at the valley floor below. And at that moment, I thought, there is nowhere else I’d rather be than here while inhaling crisp air and listening to the howling winds. I thoroughly enjoy exploring the vastness of the alpine.

Sulphur Mountain by Gondola

Banff Gondola is open year-round and takes you up the summit in just 8 minutes and $61 later. The summit facility also features restaurants, exhibits, a multisensory theatre, a rooftop observation deck, and two Parks Canada Red Chairs. Stella and I explored the boardwalk and the self-guided interpretive trail. The two of us spent a leisurely weekend in Banff. The weather was great, and driving through Highway 11 is never wasted.

Hiking Sulphur Mountain Trail Banff

Distance: 12 km

Difficulty: moderate

Elevation: 750 m

Time: 3 hours plus some extra for lunch

What to Pack for the Sulphur Mountain Trail

  • Base layer, Mid Layer, Shell or Waterproof/Windproof Jacket
  • Hiking Boots
  • Wool Socks
  • Hat/Gloves
  • Hiking Poles
  • Daypack
  • Snacks
  • Hydration
  • First Aid
  • Bearspray
  • Microspikes

LNT

Always, always practice LNT principles on your hikes. I encourage you to visit: leavenotrace.ca/principles for more details regarding those principles.

Happy Trails!