Ocean waves sound exactly like mountain winds.

Please don’t ask me how it took me twenty years to get here, but it was a pandemic, and I was stuck in Canada. The second half of 2020 was challenging, so it felt good to get a taste of freedom while in Tofino, even though only for a short few days.

I flew to Vancouver for the first time on a plane since the pandemic began. Flustered, I looked around the YEG airport, how dead it was compared to just six months before when we were leaving for Mexico, drinking mimosas at 4:30 am. Now, I couldn’t even get a cup of coffee.

As the rain bounced off my rented car, I drove through Vancouver and marvelled at the solitude one could never stumble upon here before. Fairmont Vancouver was so empty that I was given an upgrade without even asking. I smiled, went up to my room and sat down on the bed alone with my thoughts. After a quick nap I had some much-needed coffee and drove to the airport to pick up Karen. She was flying in from Toronto.

West Coast

We spent a day in the city as though everything was normal. Wishing Covid never happened, we walked the streets of beautiful Vancouver, a city with so much rain, had more coffee, ate sushi and caught up with our friend, Joceryne. There is something mystical in this city and something familiar in its people. And I couldn’t love it more. The following day we headed for the coast.

Beautiful Cox Bay In Tofino.
Cox Bay

The West coastline is like no other coast. It sprawls on a peninsula characterized by wild, rugged scenery and ancient rainforest. The air feels untamed, and ocean waves sound exactly like mountain winds. Tofino is a small, remote community, making this setting so refreshing and rejuvenating. It’s home to Pacific Rim National Park, storm watching, all-year-round surfing and oceanside bliss. Sand, sea and life’s simple pleasures.

How To Get There

The drive from Vancouver to Tofino includes taking the scenic ferry from Tsawwassen or Horseshoe Bay. You can check out BC Ferries schedules to help plan your trip. Once in Nanaimo, it’s about a 3-hour drive through the most picturesque, windy roads that will probably make you want to stop along the way. The highway took us through mountains, rivers and giant trees at Cathedral Grove.

Where We Stayed

We stayed at Pacific Sands resort, and it was the dreamiest with the unobstructed views of Cox Bay and the mighty Pacific. I am still pinching myself. The price of CAD 489 per night gave my budget a slight heart palpitation. It had a fully equipped kitchen, dining area, living room, gas fireplace, bedroom with Queen bed, outdoor patio and full bathroom. It is one of the most beautiful resorts in Tofino, though. The views of the surfers as the waves roll in are incredible. It is also one of the best spots to watch storms. Two nights just wasn’t enough. I can’t wait to go back to this part of the country and explore more. Next time I will opt for Airbnb though, or a tent.

What To Do In Tofino

Go surfing or biking, go down to Long Beach, explore, and find the starfish, mussels, and sea urchins. You can take a tour with Tofino Air and view Tofino’s crashing waves, mountainous terrain and sandy shores from above. It’s surreal! Hiking through Tonquin Beach and Third Beach feels secluded and oh so peaceful. You can catch a glimpse of a sense of belonging between yourself and the rest of nature.

We did so much in two days but never felt rushed. Everything is close enough to be convenient but far enough to experience the sights. We were honestly impressed with everything Tofino has to offer.

Storm watching

The storm-watching season starts in October and is a celebrated attraction. Because Tofino is so exposed to the Pacific Ocean, the storms get quite wild. We are talking about lushing waves as high as 12 meters, giant swells and gale-force winds. On average you can expect ten to fifteen storms a month. It’s a great way to witness nature’s ferocity. Exciting and dangerous at the same time. Cox Bay is known to see the biggest waves. Other great watching spots include Chesterman Beach and Wickaninnish Beach. Don’t forget to practise responsible storm watching by staying dry-ish and safe.

Rainforest Trail

Located in Pacific Rim National Park, the scenic Rainforest Trail is one of the most popular trails amongst locals and tourists alike. Route A and B are located on each side of the highway. It was a short hike but felt very sacred. There was something magical in these forests, and I imagined the history these trees have seen. I like closing my eyes and listening to the trees in places like those. It is both peaceful and fascinating. Additionally, three meters of annual rainfall ensure that the rainforest remains incredibly lush and green.

Tonquin Beach and Third Beach

It is an easy walking trail that passes through the rainforest along the Pacific Coast. You can access it right from the town. It is a popular place for sunsets and much calmer than Long Beach. You will be surprised by the views, and when the ocean views are out of sight, you can still hear the waves from a distance. It’s simply ideal.

We were greeted with a mostly empty beach and spent some time just exploring. It was chilly, but still only enough for a rain jacket.

Tonquin Beach Is Easily Accessible From Downtown Tofino.
Tonquin Beach

Where To Eat In Tofino

We ate well on this trip. Every night we didn’t think we could find another place that could come close to the last one, but it did. Food is about connection and a way we show love for others. Wolf In The Fog was very good and very pricey. We also tried the Jeju restaurant, and it was to die for. I heard Tacofino was a popular spot, but we ended up eating tacos at our resort instead. Perfection!

What To Pack For Tofino

Tofino in late September was chilly, cloudy and wet. I would suggest bringing:

  • Rain Jacket or A Poncho
  • Rain-boots or Other Water Proof Shoes
  • Long Pants
  • Layers (Fleece or A Sweater)
  • Touque and Gloves
  • Woolsocks
  • Swimsuit (for pictures only, the water was freezing and if you know me you know how much I dislike being cold).

If you want to know how to practise safe storm watching visit: https://tourismtofino.com/things-to-do/activities-adventures/stormwatching/ and https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/bc/pacificrim/activ/activ8

West is Best! Happy Adventuring!

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